Quick answer
A practical decision order is: first, contribute enough to your 401(k) to capture the full employer match (it's an immediate guaranteed return); second, decide Traditional vs. Roth based on whether you expect a lower or higher tax rate in retirement than today; third, check whether your income phases you out of direct Roth IRA contributions (for 2026, $153,000–$168,000 MAGI for single filers and $242,000–$252,000 for married filing jointly) — a Roth 401(k), if your employer offers one, has no such income limit.
Traditional vs. Roth, 401(k) vs. IRA — there are really four separate decisions hiding inside “which account should I use,” and they resolve in a specific, sensible order rather than all at once.
Step 1: Capture the full employer match first
If your employer matches 401(k) contributions, that match is an immediate, guaranteed return on your money that no IRA or outside account can replicate — contribute at least enough to capture all of it before optimizing anything else. The exact match formula varies by employer, so check your own plan's specifics.
Step 2: Traditional or Roth — the same-paycheck-cost test
Once the match is captured, the next question is Traditional (pre-tax now, taxed on withdrawal) vs. Roth (taxed now, tax-free on withdrawal). The two are mathematically identical when your tax rate never changes, and diverge based on whether you expect a lower or higher tax rate in retirement — the full same-paycheck-cost methodology is in the 401(k) vs Roth IRA Calculator.
Run the same-cost comparison with your own numbers
Your Numbers
Enter the pre-tax contribution amount — the same paycheck cost today either way.
After-tax balance at withdrawal
Traditional 401(k)/IRA
344,280
Grows to 405,036 pre-tax, taxed at 15% on withdrawal
Roth IRA
315,928
Contributing 390/mo after-tax (same paycheck cost), tax-free on withdrawal
At these rates, the Traditional 401(k)/IRA comes out ahead by 28,353 after tax, for the same cost out of your paycheck today.
This compares the same take-home-pay cost today, not the same nominal contribution — the Roth side contributes the after-tax-equivalent amount. Your actual future tax rate is unknowable; both rates here are assumptions you choose. For informational purposes only, not tax or financial advice.
Step 3: Check whether you can even contribute to a Roth IRA
A Roth 401(k) has no income limit — anyone whose plan offers one can contribute, regardless of salary. A Roth IRA is different: contributions phase out entirely above a MAGI threshold. For 2026:
2026 Roth IRA MAGI phase-out ranges (verify current figures at irs.gov)
| Filing status | Phase-out range | Above this: no direct Roth IRA |
|---|---|---|
| Single / Head of household | $153,000–$168,000 | $168,000+ |
| Married filing jointly | $242,000–$252,000 | $252,000+ |
Phased out of a direct Roth IRA? A Roth 401(k) (if your employer offers one) is still fully available regardless of income — this is the single biggest reason high earners end up prioritizing a Roth 401(k) over a Roth IRA.
Step 4: Required minimum distributions (RMDs)
Traditional 401(k)s and IRAs require you to start withdrawing (and paying tax on) a minimum amount each year once you reach the RMD age, whether you need the money or not. Roth IRAs have never had RMDs during the original owner's lifetime, and designated Roth 401(k) accounts no longer do either — a point in Roth's favor for anyone who wants control over when they draw down their balance.
- Expect a lower tax rate in retirement than today → Traditional tends to come out ahead.
- Expect the same or a higher tax rate in retirement → Roth tends to come out ahead.
- Income phases you out of a Roth IRA, but your 401(k) plan offers a Roth option → Roth 401(k) has no income limit.
- Want to avoid forced withdrawals in retirement → Roth accounts have no RMDs for the original owner.
Already behind on savings and weighing catch-up contributions against this same decision? See the 401(k) catch-up contribution guide for the 2026 catch-up limits and a worked example.
For educational and informational purposes only — not financial, investment, trading, legal or tax advice. See our full Financial Disclaimer.
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